Kashmir in Winter with Kids: What to Pack and Ask

Kashmir in winter works well with children, and for many families it is the one season when the kids see proper snow. What goes wrong is rarely the cold itself. It is wet cotton gloves, a room whose heater does not really work, a four-year-old in rented boots two sizes too big, and a plan with three outings squeezed into a short winter day. This guide covers what to pack, what to hire, what to ask about heating, and how to pace a day, from the Srinagar side.

If you are still choosing a month, our best time to visit Kashmir guide compares all four seasons. This post assumes you have already picked winter, roughly December to February, and want it to go smoothly with kids.

How cold it gets, and how little daylight you have

The numbers below are the long-term monthly averages from the India Meteorological Department (IMD) for 1991 to 2020. They are averages, so some days will be colder, and the minimum is the night and early-morning figure.

Read the Gulmarg row twice. In January the average afternoon high is 0.7 C, barely above freezing, which is why the snow stays. It is also why a child who was warm in the car can go quiet and miserable on the meadow before you have finished the first sledge run.

Daylight is the other limit. Our calculation for Srinagar puts sunrise at about 7:29 am and sunset at about 5:22 pm on 15 December, which is under ten hours between them. By 15 February sunset is near 6:13 pm. With a two-hour drive to Gulmarg each way, that is why we say one big outing per day and not two.

Layers matter more than one big coat

For children, think in three layers and keep each one light enough to take off.

• Next to the skin: a thermal top and leggings. Cotton works indoors, but once it is damp from sweat or snow it stays cold, so wool, fleece-lined or synthetic thermals are better for outdoor days.
• Middle: a fleece or a woollen sweater. This is the layer you add or remove in the car, at lunch or after a sledge run.
• Outside: a windproof, waterproof jacket. Wind on the Gulmarg meadow cuts through a sweater far faster than the temperature suggests.

Then the parts that get forgotten:

• Two pairs of gloves per child, one waterproof, and a spare in the day bag. Wet gloves are the number one reason a snow outing ends early.
• A warm cap that covers the ears, and a neck gaiter or scarf the child cannot pull off easily.
• Wool socks, two or three pairs per day. Take spares in a plastic bag.
• Sunglasses or at least a cap with a brim. Snow glare is strong, even under cloud.
• Lip balm and a plain moisturiser. Heaters dry the air indoors, and cold wind does the rest outside.
• Waterproof shoes or boots with grip for every family member, since frosty mornings can make pavements and hotel steps slippery.

What to hire at Tangmarg instead of buying

Tangmarg is the town at the foot of the Gulmarg climb. Snow jackets and boots are hired there and in Gulmarg, as our Gulmarg page says, and for a family that will wear snow gear on one or two days it is cheaper than buying. It still adds up with four people, so put it in the budget; our Kashmir budget guide notes the same about boots and jackets for a family of four.

Two cautions from our side. First, nobody can promise a child's size will be in stock on the day, so if your child already has a good pair of waterproof boots, bring them and hire only the jacket. Second, check that hired boots are dry inside before anyone puts them on, and ask for another pair if they are not.

We do not print rental rates, because they change with the day and the shop.

Ask how the room is heated, before you book

This is the question that matters most for children, and the one most guests forget to ask. Heated rooms in Kashmir do not all work the same way. The usual options are central heating, a room heater, an electric blanket, or a bukhari, which is a stove with a chimney, usually wood-fired, that sits in the room.

Before we confirm a winter room, we ask the hotel which one it is. You can ask your own hotel the same four things:

1. What heats the room, and does it run all night or only for some hours?
2. Is the bathroom attached, and is there hot water in the early morning?
3. If there is a bukhari, how is it ventilated, and who looks after it overnight?
4. Is there a second blanket or quilt available for a child who kicks theirs off?

For houseboats, the question is on our houseboat page as well: heating in winter and whether the bathroom is attached both depend on the category of boat. With children, one night on a heated houseboat is plenty, and a hotel on Boulevard Road is the calmer first night if your flight lands late.

Kangri, the clay pot of embers that locals carry under a pheran, is part of the Kashmir winter and your driver or boatman may offer one. It is a nice thing to see. Keep it well away from small children and loose clothing.

Where winter day trips stand

Gulmarg is the main winter trip, and the one families usually come for. It is about 56 km from Srinagar and takes around two hours, and the last climb from Tangmarg can be limited to vehicles with chains or four-wheel drive after heavy snow. Sledges, a first ski lesson or a simple walk in snow are all possible, and the gondola is optional. Phase 1 is the usual choice with children; Phase 2 goes close to 4,000 metres and is much colder. Our Gulmarg gondola booking guide explains how to book online, and our Gulmarg sightseeing post has the one-day family route. If you would like to try skiing, read our skiing page first. Beginners start on the gentle slopes near the village, and a first-morning instructor is worth hiring.

Pahalgam can be very pretty in snow, and it is also quieter. How far the local union cars can go towards Betaab or Aru depends on the snow that week, so we decide on the day, not weeks ahead. See Pahalgam for the route.

Sonamarg stays open more of the winter than it used to, since the Z-Morh tunnel opened in January 2025, but heavy snow can still close the road for a day or two. We check it the evening before, as our Sonamarg page says. It is a long day for small children, so we only suggest it when everyone is happy in the car.

Doodhpathri is not a winter trip. The Directorate of Tourism lists its road as accessible from May to October, so keep it for a summer or early autumn visit. Our Doodhpathri post explains why.

Srinagar itself is calmer in winter. A shikara ride on Dal Lake is possible on dry days, with blankets, and some boatmen offer a kangri. The shikara ride page has the details, and our Srinagar page lists what to see in town when the weather turns.

A winter day that works with children

Here is how a Gulmarg day looks when we plan it for a family in December or January:

1. Breakfast at the hotel by 7:30 am, with spare gloves and a flask in the day bag.
2. Leave Srinagar by about 8 am. Our Srinagar to Gulmarg taxi page explains how long it takes and why snow slows the last stretch.
3. Hire snow gear at Tangmarg if you need it, with a quick check of sizes.
4. Spend the middle of the day on the snow: sledges, a short walk, a hot drink. Stop when the first child goes quiet, not when they cry.
5. Eat lunch in Gulmarg before everyone is cold and tired.
6. Start the drive back by 2:30 or 3 pm, so the descent is in daylight.
7. A warm dinner at the hotel and nothing planned for the evening.

The day after a Gulmarg trip should be an easy one. Children who spent hours in the snow are usually flat the next morning, and a slow Srinagar day suits them better than another long drive.

Flights, roads and a spare day

Winter flights into Srinagar can be held up by fog or snow, and security queues at the airport are slow in winter. Do not book a tight onward connection on your departure day, and keep the first evening free. Our airport taxi service puts a driver with a name board at arrivals.

A spare day built into the plan helps in a different way. If the weather turns bad on the morning you were meant to go to Gulmarg, you can move that day and lose nothing. Our Kashmir family package keeps a spare day in Srinagar for this reason, and the one-hotel base means you do not repack every morning.

If your family travels with grandparents, read our post on a Kashmir trip with elderly parents as well, since the pacing advice carries over.

Questions parents ask us before a winter trip

Is Kashmir too cold for small children?

Many families bring children in winter and manage well with the right layers and short outings. The harder part is long drives on icy roads and rooms that are not heated properly, which is why we plan one hotel and check the heating. If your child has a health condition, ask your doctor before you book.

Will we definitely see snow?

No, and anyone who promises that is guessing. Snow is likely in Gulmarg between December and February, but never guaranteed on a given date, and Srinagar can be dry and grey while the mountains are white. We tell you what is on the ground a few days before you fly.

Should we stay a night in Gulmarg?

For most first visits a day trip from Srinagar is enough. A night in Gulmarg gives you an empty meadow early in the morning and a shorter queue at the gondola, but rooms cost more there and the nights are much colder. With toddlers, we usually keep the nights in Srinagar.

What should we do about the New Year week?

It is one of the busiest weeks of the year, rates for it are higher than in January, and Gulmarg rooms go early. Our New Year package is planned around short daylight and cold mornings, and the same plan in mid January or February usually costs less and has more snow.

Does the same kit work for October or early November?

Mostly, with lighter layers. IMD's November average for Srinagar is 1.2 C at night and 15.9 C by day, so mornings and evenings are cold but afternoons are mild. Our October weather guide covers what to expect before the real cold starts.

Plan it with us

Tell us the children's ages, your dates and how far you would like to travel each day, and our Srinagar team will reply with a written quote. We will also check the heating of every room before we confirm it. You can write through our contact page or call the office on Boulevard Road on +91 70062 71178.