If you have been watching Bigg Boss 20, you know Qazi Touqeer as the Srinagar singer who brings Kashmir into almost every conversation, catchphrase "I'm a rockstar, baby" included. Back home, his fans have taken that energy onto the city's walls.
Rising Kashmir reported on 17 October 2026 that local artists Shahraan Fayaz and Sahil Manzoor painted a colourful mural of Qazi near Amar Singh College in Srinagar, and that passers-by were stopping to admire it and take selfies. A few days later, The Hindu described another larger-than-life portrait of him on a wall at Books and Bricks cafe in Wazir Bagh, in uptown Srinagar, drawing "young and old alike" to pose for photos.
That gives visiting families a fun excuse for something we love recommending in the colder months: an early, unhurried Srinagar winter morning. Start with Kashmir's famous winter breakfast, harissa, add a photo stop for the fans in your group, and finish with a stroll through the chinar-lined Polo View market. Here is how to put it together.
A quick note: D2 Holidays is not affiliated with Qazi Touqeer, the mural artists, Books and Bricks cafe, Bigg Boss or the broadcaster. This is an independent travel guide.
What is Kashmiri harissa?
Do not confuse it with the North African chilli paste of the same name. Kashmiri harissa is a slow-cooked breakfast of mutton and short-grain rice, mashed into a thick, silky paste. Greater Kashmir lists the usual flavourings as cinnamon, fennel seeds, cloves, cardamom, black pepper and shallots. Whetstone Magazine describes the rice and meat cooking in large earthen pots over a wood-fired oven, simmering for hours and often overnight.
In the small hours the cooks pull out every bone and keep stirring until the texture is just right. Your plate usually arrives with a few small kebabs, a little methi maaz (lamb cooked with fenugreek), fried onions and a final splash of sizzling mustard oil. It is scooped up with girda, the round Kashmiri morning bread with a puffed rim and a dimpled middle. Greater Kashmir notes that no drink is served alongside: harissa gets your full attention.
It is rich, warming and very much a cold-weather dish, eaten for warmth in the coldest months.
When and where to eat harissa in Srinagar
Season. Harissa is a winter-only dish. The Kashmir Walla reported that demand runs from around October, when the mornings turn foggy, through to March. Scroll.in reported that one of the oldest family-run shops serves it in a fixed window from late September to early April. If your trip falls between November and February, you are right in the heart of the season.
Timing. This is the part most visitors miss. Harissa shops cook through the night and serve at dawn. Whetstone reports that shops close around 9 am, and Scroll.in quotes a regular who says it is best before 9 to 9.30 am. Once the day's batch is sold out, that is it until tomorrow. Plan to be eating by 7.30 or 8 am.
Where. The oldest harissa shops are in downtown Srinagar. Whetstone names Aali Kadal, Fateh Kadal and Rajouri Kadal, plus a few well-known shops uptown in Maisuma and Sarai Bal. Greater Kashmir traces the traditional harissa cooks to Saraf Kadal and Aali Kadal. The Kashmir Walla and Scroll.in both profiled the Bhat family's shop in Aali Kadal, which they describe as around 200 years old. Some Srinagar hotels also serve harissa at breakfast in winter, so ask at your stay if an early drive feels like too much.
We are not quoting prices here. Harissa is sold by the plate or by weight, and the price moves with the cost of mutton each season, so check at the counter.
Tips for eating harissa with kids
- Dress for the cold. Old harissa shops are cosy, but the walk from the car on a winter morning is not. Layers, gloves and warm socks matter. Our Kashmir winter packing list for kids covers the details.
- Share one plate first. Harissa is heavy. Let the family taste a shared plate before ordering more.
- Ask about the oil. That hot mustard oil topping is part of the experience, but younger children may prefer a plain spoonful from the side of the plate, before the oil is poured.
- Have a backup for picky eaters. Children who do not eat mutton can still enjoy a warm girda, and many bakeries sell fresh bread and cups of tea from early morning.
- Be patient and polite. These are working kitchens with regular local customers. Wait your turn, and ask before taking photos of the cooks.
A photo stop: the Qazi Touqeer murals
After breakfast, fans in your group may want a picture with Srinagar's newest street art. Based on the two reports above, the murals are near Amar Singh College and at Books and Bricks cafe in Wazir Bagh, both in uptown Srinagar. We have not given exact walking routes because street art can be painted over or changed, so ask your driver to check before you set out.
A few simple manners help. If the portrait is on a private cafe wall, it is good form to step in for a cup of tea rather than just using the frontage. Keep the pavement clear for people walking to work.
Finish at Polo View market
End the morning at Polo View, uptown Srinagar's pedestrian-only shopping street. Rebuilt under the Srinagar Smart City project and opened in May 2023, it is a 450-foot double-row market with chinar trees down the centre, cobblestone paths and no overhead wires, according to The Hindu and The Week. The shopfronts use dhajji dewari timber facades, a nod to traditional Kashmiri building.
For families, the best thing about Polo View is that there is no traffic in the middle of it. Children can walk freely while adults browse shops known for handicrafts, handloom and dry fruits, some with histories going back more than a century. Benches under the chinars make it an easy spot to rest before heading back to your hotel or houseboat.
How the morning fits together
- Around 7 am: Leave your hotel or houseboat, warmly dressed.
- 7.30 to 8.30 am: Harissa breakfast, downtown or at a well-known uptown shop.
- 9 to 9.30 am: Mural photo stop in uptown Srinagar, if the fans insist.
- 10 am onwards: Polo View stroll, then a slow return for a nap or a lazy afternoon.
It is a short, low-effort outing that gives children a real taste of a Kashmiri winter, and it leaves the afternoon free for a shikara ride or a rest. If harissa wins your family over, our guide to Mirchi Korma and wazwan is the next step into Kashmir's food culture.
Plan a winter trip to Srinagar
Want this morning built into a wider trip, with Gulmarg snow, a houseboat night and family-friendly stays? Take a look at our Kashmir family package. We are a J&K Tourism registered tour operator in Srinagar. Call or WhatsApp +91 70062 71178, email info@d2holidays.com, or visit us on Boulevard Road, Srinagar.
Disclaimer: D2 Holidays is not affiliated with Qazi Touqeer, Shahraan Fayaz, Sahil Manzoor, Books and Bricks cafe, Bigg Boss or the broadcaster. Mural details are from Rising Kashmir (17 October 2026) and The Hindu (21 October 2026). Harissa details draw on Greater Kashmir, Whetstone Magazine, Scroll.in and The Kashmir Walla; Polo View details on The Hindu and The Week. Street art and shop timings can change, so please check locally.